Burberry scaled again its presentation this season and confirmed solely menswear. It remodeled its 121 Regent Avenue retailer into a luxurious, all-cream catwalk to livestream AW21 menswear – greater than 5,000 Instagram customers considered the gathering, named Escapes.
Artistic director Riccardo Tisci introduced the outside in, saying: “Enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outside and its magnificence,” and explaining that he was impressed by Britain’s exploration of the countryside within the early 20th Century.
Tisci paid tribute to nature by means of a pure color palette, together with oxblood burgundy, browns and greys, in addition to pale pink and blue. It was all within the equipment – knot-detail beanie hats had been impressed by the silhouette of a deer, boots and trainers had moulded soles to resemble hooves. Pleat and fringe trims on outerwear, shorts and smocks mirrored motion impressed by gusts of wind.
The presentation was minimalist in contrast with Burberry’s September spectacle, when males’s and ladies’s put on was reside streamed on gaming platform Twitch from the depths of the British countryside and featured dancers and a reside band. Nonetheless, Tisci’s exploration of nature continues, and has shifted from the ocean for SS21, firmly grounding to earth for AW21.
Womenswear designer Roksanda Ilincic seemed to silver display royalty for her presentation. It was a household affair, with actress Vanessa Redgrave, her daughter Joely Richardson and granddaughter Daisy Bevan sporting the AW21 assortment, in a movie shot with an iPhone at their dwelling.
Roksanda’s signature outsized silhouettes have been up to date with hand-painted drawings of the feminine determine. The 2-tone palette that the label is understood for was is current in outsized blazers and wide-leg trousers in mint and camel, and sand and fuchsia. There’s a continuation of loungewear first seen final season, but additionally energy sleeves that imply enterprise, and weren’t designed for staying at dwelling. The gathering additionally options voluminous, hand-painted robes and critically outsized jumpsuits – superb for sustaining a social distance.
Designer Osman Yousefzada’s AW21 assortment consists of ornate coats made in Uzbekistan, hand woven utilizing conventional methods – every taking as much as 50 hours to finish. The worldwide journey additionally reaches India, as the gathering, which additionally consists of maxi, backless celebration attire, is embellished with mirror embroidery made in Rajasthan.
The gathering is made out of deadstock materials, or “the final yards” as Osman calls the initiative. The hand of Famita, or “evil eye” options on earrings and is printed on outerwear. The elaborations proceed with glass chandelier trims on jacket sleeves and hems.
Womenswear designer Emilia Wickstead’s fashions walked by means of a purple maze to indicate a prim and basic assortment for AW21 that foresees a return to formality. Voluminous capes, structured jumpsuits and inflexible tailoring give solution to crop tops and thigh-high break up skirts.
Lower out particulars across the midriff, waist and chest add an extra trace of flesh, whereas a nineties nod is given by a minimalist sleeveless column costume teamed with lengthy satin opera gloves. Eveningwear has a regal take – with gold and bronze jacquard, 1950’s day attire, full skirts and boleros. Delicate rose prints in gold and blue are launched and set towards a fragile white backdrop on pencil attire, coats and crop tops.
Lee experimented with a moderately completely different solution to current her AW21 assortment. She debuted a recording of a podcast, in collaboration with US broadcaster Paul Bae, the place listeners heard a lady talk about the reminiscence of sporting a sure costume. The viewers was offered with a lookbook of recent product following the recording, which included shifting photos.
The designer’s upcoming assortment included her first vary of loungewear – consisting of white joggers and jumpsuits. Shades of strawberry ice cream pink and chocolate brown function within the assortment, together with mustard yellow. AW21 additionally options midi-dresses with gathered waists, statement-sleeved shirts and ruching.